Ruby in the Curry Crown

When word of mouth in Bradford, the UK's curry hotspot, indicates that a new Asian restaurant is worth a visit, you know you're in for a treat. We hotfooted it there, zapping up the Leeds road in a taxi past sari shops, cafes, and the famous Akbar's, a landmark for lovers of spicy food, which proclaims on it's website to be 'probably the best curry restaurant in the North of England'.

That's as maybe, but new kid on the block Zouk is doing something so appealing that the old guard might like to take a look over their shoulder. Run by brothers Mudassar and Tayub Amjad and billed as a tea bar and grill, it's a visually attractive spot, funkily enticing with it's modular chairs in warm brights, mirrors and clean modern lines. They're intent on appealing to a younger crowd, and tables are arranged to accomodate companionable groups - on our visit, young families and groups of friends - and couples. An element of post-industrial chic is added by the view from the windows; reflected neon lights on a wet road bordered by old stone buildings from when Bradford was a centre of the textile industry. As you go in there's a great sweep of a silver counter that morphs into a bar area with high stools. The ambience is friendly and welcoming, with a soundtrack of modern Asian music.

It's a good setting but none of it would count if the food wan't up to scratch. Fortunately for us, this was no triumph of style over substance: we have been raving about Zouk's food ever since our visit.

You can tell a lot about a restaurant from how it delivers the basics; if an Italian restaurant, for instance, flops on the pasta front, it's not an encouraging sign, and you wouldn't reckon much to a Chinese that offered dodgy prawn crackers. Zouk indicated its quality from the off. Laid flatly at the bottom of their silver basket, the popadoms (45p each) looked modest rather than the flamboyant frilly things often served elsewhere. They belied their low-key appearance, though. Perfectly dry, crisp and flaky, studded with cumin seeds, we loved every bite, heightened by four lovely sauces, of which the chilli-enhanced mint and yoghurt was my favourite. We accompanied them with a Cobra beer (£2.50) and a mango juice (£2.50).

Although the menu offers some Arabian selections such as schwarma - meat cooked on a skewer over an open flame - and falafel, the food is predominantly Lahori. There are breakfast options and a gourmet burger menu, and some fantastic steak and fish dishes; familiar friends are given a fresh, modern edge thanks to contemporary cooking techniques and presentation. Both our starters were particularly good versions of things we have eaten elsewhere. My companion was full of praise for his keema paratha (£2.45), a chapati studded with spicy minced lamb cooked on a tawa, or iron skillet. I was equally pleased with panir tikka (£2.75) from the vegetarian starter selection. The skewered cubes of cheese were coated in a divine marinade of garlic, lemon juice and red chilli, flavoursome but not tongue-burning, and grilled with peppers, tomatoes and onions. Very moreish indeed.