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Super Zouka

Originally printed in the Yorkshire Evening Post

When is a curry house not a curry house? The answer is - when it's a tea bar and grill. At least that's what Bradford's Zouk has styled itself as.

However on our Friday night visit it was Indian Restaurant through and through, and very good too.

Like some of Bradford's most well known curry brands, newcomer Zouk has got itself a gimmick. It's open all day, including breakfast and there's a "theatre-style" kitchen which means diners can see their tandoori chicken and whatnot being cooked. They also advertise a range of speciality seafood and - perhaps slightly strangely - they've got a French pastry chef to create the sort of desserts that don't normally feature on a curry house menu.

Thankfully they've got the basics right. On the night we dined the place was buzzing. Couples, groups of friends and families all happily tucked in, soaking up the relaxed atmosphere.

Zouk is on Leeds Road, heading out from Bradford city centre towards Thornbury, a few doors down from classic curry venue Akbars.

Though the room we were in was small, there could be plans to extend into neighbouring premises - a large sign advertising Zouk hung from the front of the building next door.

Me and my companion snaffled the last remaining table, having booked, but a stream of diners came in after us and seemed happy to wait in a small bar area until a table became free - clearly they thought the food was worth waiting for.

We did too, though we didn't have to wait that long. The eager-to-please and attentive waiters had taken our drinks orders before we'd even opened the menu, which was a confusing, but enticing treat. Starters included the usual suspects of kebabs and boti, but there was also more fish than in similar establishments.

Mains included dishes like karahi and passanda rubbing shoulders with steaks and burgers. Though some featured special Zouk spicing, we stuck with the classics.

Oddly the fish which I'd thought was a speciality was totally absent in the mains, the only thing from the sea being the ubiquitous king prawn. Maybe we'd not asked for the "speciality seafood menu".

During the wait for starters, I was pleased to see the chefs in action over the flame grill. Our starters took a reasonable amount of time to arrive, suggesting they were being freshly cooked insted of dished up almost as soon as you've finished ordering, which always makes me suspicious.

Curried fish is a favourite for me and I'd gone for the Tandoori Haddock (£2.95), described on the menu as being "marinated in mashed garlic cloves, dry coriander seeds, crushed pomegranate seeds and a choice of spices then barbecued over hot charcoals".

It was intensely savoury and delicious and set off by a tangy radish and tamarind sauce.

My dining partner had gone for an old favourite too, the tandoori mixed grill (£3.95).

A lamb chop, kebabs, chicken pieces and a drumstick were roasted with spices and accompanied by the more traditional raita. If his speedily cleared plate was anything to go by, this version compared favourably to others elsewhere.

We were both glad of our jug of mango lassi, the smooth creaminess defusing the hottest of the spices.

Soon enough the mains arrived. I'd gone for lamb and ginger (£5.95). Tender pieces of lamb had been cooked in a tomato base with large amounts of ginger, and more as a garnish just for good measure. It was unusual and delicious. My companion had lamb too but his was quite different.

The lamb nihari (£6.95) had a much richer and deeply flavoured sauce which was another hit. A side dish of palak paneer (£2.95) was adequate, though on the oily side.

The tandoori roti and garlic and coriander naan we mopped up our sauces with were good too.

A nice touch was the extras plate including chopped chillis, coriander and other bits and pieces served with the mains to customize your curry.

Zouk External Shot

Afterwards I perused the dessert menu but there was no room for a pastry-based treat. Instead we shared a portion of caramel and cinnamon ice cream - actually a scoop of each - which one of those attentive waiters had got the chef to sprinkle chopped pistachios on to. The perfect end to the meal

With a dhesi tea, the bill came to an extremely good value £37.10 and we left contented, but not overfull.

Zouk scooped Best Restaurant outside Leeds city centre in the Yorkshire Evening Post's Nightlife Awards earlier this year and it's easy to see why. YEP readers have got good taste.

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